Last week’s NY Fashion Week didn’t make waves. It merely coasted. Politics has overshadowed everything this past year. It has cast a dense dark cloud over the creative minds who curate the items which make their way into our closets. Fashion seems to be an afterthought and sometimes irrelevant in light of the daily drama in the USA. Who would’ve thought that CNN would replace soap operas?
Prior to Fashion Week, The Woman’s March and the PussyHat Project Movement caught our attention for marrying craft, activism and fashion into a powerful and visual political statement. With this incredible strong tide, I was surprised that none of the NY designers incorporated PussyHats into their runway presentations. After all, the PussyHat is perfect for the catwalk, pun intended. If only some iterations of the now iconic pink PussyHat had been sent down the runway as acknowledgment of this grassroots movement. There are more marches and demonstrations taking place such as those planned for International Women’s Day/A Day Without A Woman (March 8th) and Earth Day/Science March (April 22nd). I would have liked to have seen fashion ready PussyHats like Jamie Kreitman’s tweed mix Brooch PussyHats and other riffs on the Cat Hat for fashion inspiration and direction.
Nevertheless, Public School’s MAKE AMERICA NEW YORK hat has me eager to wear one, even though I don’t like baseball hats. The hat declaration suits me as a proud liberal elitist, who never wants to leave my NY bubble. Though I have visited many states, I eagerly return to NY where I am most happy.
Prabal Gurung closed out his show with models wearing their political message prominently across their chest. THE FUTURE IS FEMALE infuriates men, but we are not backing down.
Rachel Antonoff has created a conversation starter with her UTERUS intarsia turtleneck. Well done. It’s about time a new insignia replaces the banal alligator and male polo player. I should wear this to the next Trump rally to remind him that ‘Angry White Feminists’ are here to mock him at every direction.
It looks like capes will continue to be a trend this fall. They aren’t exactly the most comfortable item to wear for someone who is disabled since they inhibit my arms from having a wide range of motion. But how could I resist this one designed by Nigerian designer Duro Olowu? Capes are feminine and a staple of female superheroes such as Wonder Woman. On days where I want to feel boldly unstoppable, I don a cape.
If money were no object, I would wear a different coat every day throughout fall and winter. Delpozo always designs coats which transcend all the coats that grace the runway. Josep Font, the Creative Director, hones his training in architecture into every garment. Watch this runway video to further explore his collection.
Who stole the show at New York Fashion Week? Thom Browne, as usual. He never fails to inspire me with his highly conceptual shows. This year he brought an arctic-chilled theme set designed to resemble a frozen lake, with models decked out in platform ice skates. This is what fashion is about. It should bring a chill to one’s body.
More designers are abandoning showcasing their collection on a traditional runway, instead opting to stage and photograph it with a smaller attendance in attendance. Case in point Suzanne Rae chose to highlight her collection in a live performance using friends as models in a humorous artful way. Artist Mae Elvis Kau was part of the live performance and actress Marisa Tomei was part of the photograph exhibit lining the space. (Channeling photographer Cindy Sherman here, I think.)
Eric Schlösberg, chose to feature his collection in a cabaret-like setting. He described the theme as: “It’s New York City in the ’80s. Alice, who’s been working hard for the money, falls down the rabbit hole. The Mad Hatter snatches her and makes her his sex slave for all eternity.” A sex slave for all eternity? How exhausting and boring. Give me that hat though, Eric. I will happily wear it for all eternity.
Trends that made the news for Fall 2017 like camouflage, sleeve interest, volume, unusual fur trims and the like are interesting but not compelling. Despite my disappointment, I strongly believe in….
MAKING FASHION GREAT AGAIN!
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